Day 29 - Gqeberha: A Safari Like No Other & Falling in Love with South Africa All Over Again
Another stunning sunrise greeted us this morning as we sailed into what was formerly known as Port Elizabeth, now renamed Gqeberha. Soft light glowed over the coastline, giving the day a golden, expectant feeling — perfect for our chosen safari day.
Because we had an early start and the gym wasn’t open yet, I headed to the walking track, doing a few laps and stretching out my body before grabbing a quick breakfast. Despite our best efforts… we were, of course, the last ones onto the coach. Some things never change!
There were 40 of us on today’s excursion. Our guide was brilliant, offering a steady stream of history, stories and wildlife facts during the 90-minute journey to Pumba Game Reserve. His enthusiasm set the tone beautifully.
When we arrived, we had a quick refreshment and toilet stop before being loaded onto the safari jeeps. And then the best stroke of luck for Joe: He got the front seat next to the ranger.
Given the early chaos, Joe had forgotten his hearing aids, so sitting beside the ranger meant he could hear everything — and ask all the questions his excited heart desired. The ranger was genuinely impressed by Joe’s knowledge, passion, and curiosity, eventually calling him his “co-guide”. Joe beamed the entire drive.
The weather was overcast, but this turned out to be a blessing. The ranger explained that when it’s hot, most animals take shade, but on days like today, the wildlife is active and out in the open.
What unfolded next was pure magic.
We saw almost all of the Big Five — and more.
The first sighting was a pair of cheetahs, sleek and mesmerising.
Then, over the next couple of hours, we were treated to one breathtaking moment after another:
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African elephants
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African buffalo
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White rhino
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Black wildebeest
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Giraffes
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Zebra
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Hippopotamus
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Warthogs
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Kudu
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Blesbok
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A huge variety of birds
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Smaller bush wildlife
And then — the absolute highlight —
The White Lions.
Both the male and female, regal and magnificent, lounging in the grass as though posing just for us.
There are only two reserves in all of South Africa with white lions, so this was an extraordinarily rare and privileged sighting. Everyone fell silent in awe.
Afterwards, we enjoyed lunch at the lodge, featuring traditional South African dishes and a selection of meats cooked over a braai. Joe declared the kudu stew as the best meal of the trip and was most upset when we had to leave before he could have multiple helpings of the food — though he did admit feeling a little melancholy after having just admired these beautiful creatures running free.
The Rain Arrives
When we climbed back into the jeeps to return to the bus, the heavens opened. Thankfully, our guide was prepared, and we quickly donned waterproof ponchos. Even so, we all boarded the bus slightly damp, laughing as we tried to shake off the water.
Back on board the ship, we headed straight to the cabin for a hot shower and a change of clothes, before attending our meeting with immigration services to have our passports stamped as we officially exited South Africa.
As I sat there, I found myself reflecting on how deeply I love this country — the people, the landscapes, the culture, the wildlife, and the way it all somehow feels both vast and intimate.
I mustn’t leave it so long before coming back again.
Dinner tonight was at the Italian, while Joe caught up on his phone and started sending out the many, many photos we took today — each one a memory captured.
I rounded off the evening by attending the World Rhythms show by the Navigator production team. It was simply wonderful — energetic, colourful, bursting with music from around the world.
The ship is quite rocky tonight, swaying as it moves along the South African coast.
We now look forward to a few days at sea, time to rest, reflect, and let the magic of today settle in our hearts.
Daily Reflection:
Today was a reminder of the raw, breathtaking beauty of nature — and how deeply alive the world feels when we step into its wild spaces.
South Africa has captured my heart once again.
Highlight of the Day:
✨ Seeing the white lions — rare, regal, and utterly unforgettable.






What a truly truly magical day ‼️ What stunning photos
ReplyDeleteThank you Sue. Indeed very magical xx
DeleteWow, how beautiful! We went on safari many years ago and loved it. Still miss the wine and biltong from South Africa. 🩷
ReplyDeleteI love South Africa, it has so many beautiful parts to it including the safari, wine and according to my husband and sons the Biltong x
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