Day 35 - Nosy Be, Madagascar: Lemurs, Ylang Ylang & A Day of Contrasts

We arrived early this morning in Nosy Be, a lush island belonging to Madagascar, nestled in the sparkling Mozambique Channel. Once again, the Navigator was anchored offshore, so tenders were used to bring us ashore — something we’re becoming quite accustomed to on this journey.

Our tour was departing at 8:30 a.m., which meant an early start for Mr C. I was in the gym as soon as it opened at 7 a.m., fitting in a quick session before grabbing my veggie juice, fruit, and nuts on the pool deck. Then it was back to the room to gently nudge Joe awake — no easy feat at that hour!

Customs took their time clearing the ship, so all tours were slightly delayed, but once we got ashore, everything ran smoothly.

We were greeted by our lovely guide, Diana, who gathered our little group and led us to our taxi van. Joe was delighted — he got his front-row seat again. With only two other couples joining us, the tour felt intimate, relaxed, and beautifully personalised.

Exploring Hell-Ville (Andoany)

Diana gave us a fascinating orientation of the island as we drove around the main town of Andoany (still widely referred to as Hell-Ville, its old colonial name). She shared stories about local customs, the island’s heritage, and the deep French influence that remains today in language, culture, and daily life.

Lemuria Land – A Magical Encounter



We drove through mangroves before reaching Lemuria Land, a reserve and botanical sanctuary. What followed was a magical walk through Madagascar’s wildlife in miniature:



  • Several species of lemurs, including one who became extremely fond of Joe — climbing close, staring at him lovingly, and clearly recognising a kindred spirit.



  • Geckos,

  • Chameleons,

  • Crocodiles,

  • Snakes,

  • Tortoises and turtles — including one tortoise that was 160 years old.



The gardens were rich with local flora: cacao, dragon fruit, baobabs, and of course, ylang ylang.

The Scent of Ylang Ylang

Nosy Be is famous for its ylang ylang distillation, and we had the chance to watch part of the process. Diana explained how the top-tier oil is sent back to France to be used in many luxury fragrances — including Chanel No. 5. It felt surreal to see the raw beginnings of something so iconic.

The Local Market & Daily Life

We returned to Hell-Ville to visit the local market, a bustling, colourful maze of fresh produce, fish, rice, spices, baskets, fabrics, and household goods. Life here is simple — and tough.

Diana explained that most people don’t have fridges, so they visit the market daily. Their staple food is rice, eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Village & School Visit – A Sobering Reality

We continued to Dzamandzar, visiting a local village and its school. Children begin school at six years old, yet the facilities are extremely basic:

  • No electricity in some villages

  • No running water

  • Water fetched daily from a communal well

  • Class sizes of 40+ students

  • Limited supplies and infrastructure

It was eye-opening and humbling.

Diana also taught us the local phrase “Moro Moro,” meaning slowly, slowly.
She explained, “If you do things too fast, you get anxious — and Malagasy people don’t want to live anxiously.”
A simple philosophy, but profound.

When someone asked about life expectancy, Diana gently told us:

  • Men live to around 55

  • Women to around 60

It was a sobering and emotional moment for all of us.

Andilana Beach – Paradise Found

From there, we drove to the most beautiful place on the island: Andilana Beach. Powdery soft white sand, crystal-clear water, a gentle breeze — pure paradise.



We were served drinks and lunch by the beach.
Joe was devastated to discover he hadn’t brought his swimming shorts or towel, as he would have happily swum for hours in the warm Indian Ocean.

I walked along the shoreline, dipping my feet in the bath-warm water, feeling completely relaxed. When I returned, Joe had gathered a little fan club — the local dogs and cats were curled up at his feet, as he fed them titbits from his lunch just like he used to do with Bella. It was such a sweet, tender moment.

Returning to the Ship

All too soon, it was time to return. We boarded the tender back to the Navigator and had a wonderfully chilled afternoon. Joe went for a dip in the pool, happy to finally get his swim, and then got ready for the Grand Voyage cocktail gathering.



We ended the day with dinner at Compass Rose.
Afterwards, I was tired, so I returned to our suite to write my blog, while Joe headed off to watch the evening show.

Tomorrow, another chapter begins — but today will stay in our hearts for a long time.

Daily Reflection:

Travel gifts us with moments of wonder, moments of learning,
and moments that shift our understanding of the world — and ourselves.

Highlight of the Day:
✨ Joe’s new lemur friend — and watching him surrounded by dogs and cats on the beach, just like old times with Bella.


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